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Onion Salad with Katsuobushi

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Tonight we made some salads to go with a yakiniku menu. Here is a salad of thinly sliced onions with sesame oil, soy sauce, and katsuobushi. It was a big hit in our home. But, there is a special tip in prepping the onions...


This sliced cabbage is dressed with a carrot-ginger vinaigrette. If you've eaten at any teppanyaki restaurants in America you've probably had a salad dressing like this. Everyone loves it but no one can figure out how to make it at home. Which is why you need to get this book. And, to also figure out how to soften the flavor of the onions for the salad.


The Japanese Grill is a great book by chef Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat. As it is summer time and barbecues are out and in heavy use, it's a good time to pull this book off the shelf or pick up a copy for yourself. I first reviewed it for Metropolis magazine. The review also includes a recipe for Whole Grilled Japanese Eggplant with Lemon and Soy Sauce. It's a great book that you'll use for years. Filled with beautiful photos and mouth-watering recipes.

Here is the review:
Japanese cuisine is rich with foods cooked over fire: yakitori, robatayaki, kushiyaki, and other things that end with “yaki.” Now, this new offering from Chef Tadashi Ono and co-author Harris Salat is promising to be somewhat of a handbook for those keen on grilling at home.
The book opens with basic Japanese ingredients and grilling essentials. Mastering the heat can make the difference between bland and brilliant food, and the principles are spelled out with photos. There are also helpful tips on skewering, which is much harder than you might imagine.
What makes this book is the simplicity of the recipes. There is a handful of master recipes for marinades, dipping sauces, and dressings that can be kept in the fridge for a long time. The yuzu kosho marinade is a unique one that we love both for saba (mackerel) and hotate (scallops). The wafu salad dressing and citrusy ponzu are now staples in our fridge.
Classic recipes will have you curing seafood in miso, salt, or sakekasu (sake lees, or sediment). The himono “half-dry” fish technique is surprisingly easy to master. Grilling himono at home, paired with sake, is so good that your neighborhood izakaya’s business will start to suffer.
Some of our favorite recipes so far are the squid with ginger-soy sauce, crispy chicken wings with seven-spice powder, sansho-rubbed butterflied chicken legs, and asparagus with miso-mayonnaise dipping sauce. Japanese burgers with wasabi-ketchup are a nice change-up on the typical burger, made softer with breadcrumbs and milk.
The chapter “Perfect Side Dishes” includes several vegetable dishes so appealing that we have been cooking them repeatedly. In particular, we like the lip-smacking green cabbage salad with carrot-ginger vinaigrette and the crunchy arugula-jako salad with soy-sauce vinaigrette. Cooking vegetables in foil is a great technique and made better when a ponzu butter is added.
We tested many of the recipes at home on our indoor fish grill without a hitch. Some dishes are also made in a sauté pan or in the oven, so it can be a year-round cookbook.
Ono and Salat had great success with their first book, Japanese Hot Pots: Comforting One-Pot Meals. Their next book, Japan Soul, is “a cookbook and travelogue that will introduce authentic Japanese comfort food and the dining culture of the old-school ‘downtown’ neighborhoods of Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, and other cities” says Salat.
The Japanese Grill: From Classic Yakitori to Steak, Seafood, and Vegetables (Ten Speed Press, 2011, pp.184), ¥2,108 from major bookstores and Amazon.jp.





Umeboshi and Chicken Summer Soba

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In the heat of the summer we find ourselves craving tart and sour foods as they are refreshing. Cold noodles are also a staple this time of year. Soba and somen noodles are often served with a soy sauce dipping sauce called tsuyu. This recipe was on NHK recently and it looked so good we made it the next day.

This chilled soba recipe is a one dish meal. Ground chicken is sautéed and set aside to cool. Cucumbers are sliced thin, sprinkled with salt and after resting for a few minutes squeezes of its excess water. Aromatic myōga are sliced thin. Combine the cooked chicken, cucumbers, and myōga in a bowl and season with some neriumé (uméboshi paste). Top the mixture over cold soba noodles and add a small amount of tsuyu.

It's a nice change-up to the simple version of soba. The meaty and crunchy vegetables are a nice contrast and it's all brought together with puckering tart uméboshi.

Tuna Corn Rice

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At Tokyo Station recently we grabbed some inarizushi from the basement GranSta food floor area. Inarizushi are deep-fried tofu packets that are simmered in a sweet soy broth and then stuffed with rice. Sometimes the rice is plain, white rice. But often it is seasoned with sesame seeds, minced pickled ginger, or, on this occasion, corn, tuna, and mayonnaise.

We loved this so much we've started making it at home, without the sweet tofu packets. What's not to love, especially now that corn is in season. In a bowl combine cooked rice, cooked corn, canned tuna, and mayonnaise and combine. It also goes well with nori, so feel free to wrap these up into mini hand rolls.

September Seasonal Japanese Seafood

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DSCN5316
Kamasu barracuda
Kamasu and sanma are two fish in season now that we love to simply season with salt and grill.
katsuo sashimi
Katsuo sashimi
Katsuo we love as sashimi, or if we find it in the market seared on the outside (tataki) we'll cut it into thick slices and garnish with garlic and ginger and serve with the sweet kanrō soy sauce from Kyushu.
Following are other seafood in season in September in Japan.
Amadai 赤甘鯛 tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicas)
Ayu 鮎 sweet fish (Plecoglossus altivelis)
Bora 鰡 flathead mullet or Gray mullet (Mugil cephalus)    
Chidai 血鯛 crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Hon kamasu 本カマス barracuda (Sphyraena pinguis)
Ibodai疣鯛 Japanese butterfish (Psenopsis anomala)
Isaki 伊佐木threeline grunt (Parapristipoma trilineatum)
Itoyori イトヨリGolden threadfin bream (Nemipterus virgatus)
Katsuo  鰹   skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kohada 小鰭   gizzard shad (Konosirus pumctatus)
Kurumaebi 車海老   Japanese tiger prawn (Marsupenaeus japonicas)
Maaji 真鯵 horse mackerel (Trachurus japonicas)        
Masaba真鯖   pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Sanma 秋刀魚 Pacific saury (Cololabis saira)
Shirosake 白鮭   chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)
Sujiko筋子 salmon roe still in the sac                         
Surume ika スルメイカJapanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Takabe タカベ yellow-striped butterfish (Labracoglossa argentiventris)
Warasaワラサ yellowtail  (Seriola quinqueradiata)        
Watarigani 渡蟹 swimming crab (Portunus trituberculatus)
Other fish you may see in the market
Ainame 鮎魚女fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii)                         
Akagai 赤貝 ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii)
Asari 浅利 Japanese littleneck clams (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Hotate 帆立貝 scallops (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Hoya ホヤ sea squirt (Halocynthia roretzi)
Kinki 黄血魚 thornyhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai or kinme 金目鯛 splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kihada maguro 黄肌鮪 yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares)
Makarei 真鰈 Japanese common flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Madai 真鯛 seabream (Pagurus major)
Mirugai 海松食 geoduck (Tresus keenae)
Mebaru 目張 rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Sawara 鰆 Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Sazae 栄螺 turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Tairagai 平貝 penshell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tachiuo 太刀魚 belt fish or largehead hairtail (Trichiurus lepturus)
Tsubugai   螺貝   whelk (Buccinum undatum)
Tobiuo 飛魚 flying fish (Cypselurus agoo agoo)

Moroheiya

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Moroheiya is a leafy green that becomes very slippery when it is cooked. We have it growing fresh on the rooftop garden and use it often for soup. In the version above the soup is poured over boiled gyōza.

To make the soup pull off the leaves and rinse in water. In a pot over the stove cook the leaves in a chicken stock for about two minutes or until tender. Then mix in a blender and serve immediately.

Yellowtail Sashimi

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Young yellowtail, warasa, is just coming into the market. As the waters cool down the fish becomes fattier. Over time it becomes bigger and the name changes, eventually growing into a buri. The fattier fish we serve simply as sashimi. It's also lovely when made into teriyaki.

Here it is simply sliced thin and put over chopped iceberg lettuce and wakamé. For this we like a simple dressing of fresh-squeezed lemon juice and olive oil with some salt.


Katsuo Sashimi

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Katsuo, called bonito, or as my fishmonger husband says, skipjack tuna, is a meaty fish. It's in the tuna family and is a good fish to try as sashimi if you are looking to go beyond tuna and salmon.

At the market it can be sold raw, as this is, or as tataki where it is seared or cooked over a straw fire until just the edges change color.

We put this over chopped iceberg lettuce and wakamé. It is garnished with garlic sliced thin on the Benriner, grated ginger, and minced shiso. We dress it with soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice wine vinegar.

October Seasonal Japanese Seafood

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sanma
At Tsukiji Market we are seeing many autumn seafood like oysters, wakasagi for deep-frying, and finally sanma for grilling with salt. Some of our favorite sashimi this time of year include katsuoisaki, and if you get a kawahagi with a big liver we will mix the liver with soy sauce and dip the sashimi in the creamy mixture. Many of the fishy fish like saba, iwashi, and aji are in abundance.
Akagarei 赤鰈 flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)        
Amadai 赤甘鯛 tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicas)
Ayu 鮎 sweet fish (Plecoglossus altivelis)
Bora 鰡 flathead mullet or Gray mullet (Mugil cephalus)               
Chidai 血鯛 crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Hon kamasu 本カマス barracuda (Sphyraena pinguis)       
Hon kawahagi 本皮剥 thread-sail filefish (Stephanolepis cirrhifer)   
Hon shishamo 本ししゃもcapelin or longfin smelt (Spirinchus lanceolatus)
Ibodai疣鯛 Japanese butterfish (Psenopsis anomala)
Isaki 伊佐木threeline grunt (Parapristipoma trilineatum)
Itoyori イトヨリgolden threadfin bream (Nemipterus virgatus)
Kaki 牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)
Katsuo  鰹   skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kohada 小鰭   gizzard shad (Konosirus pumctatus)
Kurumaebi 車海老   Japanese tiger prawn (Marsupenaeus japonicas)
Maaji 真鯵 horse mackerel (Trachurus japonicas)        
Maiwashi  真鰯  sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Masaba真鯖   pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Mebachi maguro 目鉢鮪 bigeye tuna (Thunnus obesus)
Medai 目鯛 butterfish (Hyperoglyphe japonica)
Mekajikiめかじき swordfish (Xiphias gladius)        
Sanma 秋刀魚 Pacific saury (Cololabis saira)
Sawara さわら Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Shirosake 白鮭   chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)                              
Sujiko筋子 salmon roe still in the sac                         
Surume ika スルメイカJapanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Tachiuo   太刀魚   cutlassfish or largehead hairtail (Trichiurus lepturus)
Takabe タカベ yellow-striped butterfish (Labracoglossa argentiventris)
Wakasagi 若細魚 Japanese smelt (Hypomesus nipponensis)                                        
Warasaワラサ yellowtail  (Seriola quinqueradiata)        
Watarigani 渡蟹 swimming crab (Portunus trituberculatus)    

Other fish you may see in the market
Ainame 鮎魚女fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii)                         
Akagai 赤貝 ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii)
Asari 浅利 Japanese littleneck clams (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Ayu     ayu or sweet fish ( Plecoglossus altivelis)                
Hotate 帆立貝 scallops (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Hoya ホヤ sea squirt (Halocynthia roretzi)
Kihada maguro 黄肌鮪 yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares)  
Kinki 黄血魚 thornyhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai or kinme 金目鯛 splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kurumaebi 車海老   Japanese tiger prawn (Marsupenaeus japonicas)  
Maaji  真鯵  horse mackerel (Trachurus japonicas) 
Madai 真鯛 sea bream (Pagurus major)
Makarei 真鰈 Japanese common flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Mebaru 目張 rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Mirugai 海松食 geoduck (Tresus keenae)           
Sazae 栄螺 turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Tairagai 平貝 penshell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tobiuo 飛魚 flying fish (Cypselurus agoo agoo)
Tsubugai   螺貝   whelk (Buccinum undatum)

Mushrooms Grilled in Foil

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Earthy mushrooms are hard to miss in the market this time of year. At our local supermarket we can find brown and white shimeji, brown and white enoki, shiitake, eringi, maitake, nameko, and maitake. At the upscale department store we can find a few other types including the aromatic matsutake.

We like to keep mushrooms on hand as they are easy to add to miso soup, sauteed and served over salads or with pasta.

This recipe is not very Japanese, but easily finds its place on the Japanese table. Shimeji mushrooms are cut at the base and then separated into pieces and put in an aluminum foil packet. This is topped with butter and garlic slices, seasoned with salt, and grilled over the barbecue or in the toaster oven.

November Seasonal Japanese Seafood

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Salmon roe, pulled out of its sac and simply marinated in the sweet soy sauce of Kyushu, is irresistible this time of year. We love it so much it is on the table for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Crabs are also coming to market. Another highlight this time of year is fresh scallops and oysters, both best when raw.
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Kawahagi may not be the most beautiful fish to look at, but when cut of its leathery skin, and served as sushi with its liver, it is heavenly.
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Shirako, or milt, is often from cod fish, but Japanese chefs I speak with say that the best milt comes from fugu. Many people who try this love its creaminess and velvety texture. But, once you tell them what it is they sometimes change their mind. Here it is steamed and then served with a tart ponzu and grated daikon with chili.
Amadai  赤甘鯛  tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicas)                                       
Ankō 鮟鱇 monkfish (Lophiomus setigerus)                     
Asaba karei 浅羽鰈  rock sole (Pleuronectes mochigarei)                                 
Chidai   血鯛  crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)                     
 Hata はた grouper  (Epinephelus septemfasciatus)                                    
Hata hata 鰰 sailfin sandfish (Arctoscopus japonicus)               
Higedara ひげたらsnubnose brotula (Hoplobrotuda armata)   
Hi ika ひいか winter dwarf squid  (Nipponololig (Loliolus) japonica)     
Hirame 鮃 olive flounder (Paralichthys olivaceus)                 
Hotate 帆立貝 scallops (Patinopecten yessoensis)                  
Hon kamasu 本カマス barracuda (Sphyraena pinguis)             
Hon kawahagi 本皮剥 thread-sail filefish (Stephanolepis cirrhifer)   
Ibodai 疣鯛  Japanese butterfish (Psenopsis anomala)                  
Ise ebi 伊勢海老  Japanese spiny lobster (Panulirus japonicas)                   
Ishi karei いしかれい Stone flounder (kareius bicoloratus)                                
Itoyori イトヨリGolden threadfin bream (Nemipterus virgatus)         
Kanpachi  間八 amberjack (Seriola dumerili)                       
Kou ika こういか cuttlefish (Sepia (Platysepia) esculenta)                       
Kuro karei くろかれい black plaice (Pleuronectes obscurus)              
Kurumaebi 車海老   Japanese tiger prawn (Marsupenaeus japonicas)
Kaki 牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)                                                         
Matara 真鱈 codfish (Gadus macrocephalus)                           
Masaba  真鯖   Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)                 
Matsuba gani  松葉蟹 spiny crab (Hypothalassia armata)           
Mebachi maguro  目鉢鮪 bigeye tuna (Thunnus obesus)         
Medai  目鯛  butterfish (Hyperoglyphe japonica)                                       
Meita karei  めいたかれいfine spotted flounder (Pleuronichthys cornutus)  
Mekajiki  かじき swordfish (Xiphias gladius)                      
Mongouika  もんごういか  cuttlefish (Sepia lycidas)                               
Mutsu  むつgnomefish  (Scombrops boops)                
Nametagarei  婆鰈  slime flounder (Microstomus achne)       
Sawara  さわら Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Sanma 秋刀魚  Pacific saury (Cololabis saira            
Shiba ebi  芝海老  Shiba shrimp (Metapenaeus joyneri                   
Shiro ika  白烏賊swordtip squid (Loligo (Photololigo) edulis) or kensaki ika   
Shirosake  白鮭   chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)                
Souda katsuo  宗田鰹bullet mackerel (Auxis rochei)                                  
Sujiko  筋子  chum salmon roe                              
Sukesou tara  助宗たら pollockTheragra chalcogramma)           
Suma katsuo  すまかつお  black skipjack (Euthynnus affinis)         
Surume ika  スルメイカ Japanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)   
Tairagai  平貝 penshell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)                 
Wakasagi  若細魚 Japanese smelt (Hypomesus nipponensis)                        
 Warasa  ワラサ  yellowtail  (Seriola quinqueradiata)            
Yoshikiri same  よしきりさめ blue shark (Prionace glauca)              
Watarigani  渡蟹   swimming crab (Portunus trituberculatus)                     
Zuwaigani  頭矮蟹  snow crab (Chionoecetes opilio)

Thin-Sliced Pork Nabe

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It's getting cold outside and this time of year we find ourselves making a lot of nabe. The preparation is simple, clean-up is a snap. And, best of all, it's a delicious meal that everyone loves.

We start by putting a piece of kombu in water in a nabe and simmer it. While the kombu is simmering we cut any vegetables we have in the house. This day it was broccoli, leeks, Napa cabbage, shimeji and enoki mushrooms, and carrots.

We then take out the kombu and add the sliced vegetables to the water. We also add some protein, sometimes tofu or fish, but today it was thin-sliced pork.

And, for a dipping sauce, we love ponzu. Ponzu is sold at the supermarket but we prefer to make it at home. One part soy sauce, one part mirin, and one part citrus juice (something tart like yuzu or kabosu).
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