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Madara Pacific Cod 101 真鱈

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Nabé with cod (small filets on the bottom) 

A popular winter dish in Japan that is really easy to prepare, is hot pot (nabé). Just cook any vegetables, meat, or fish you like in a hot broth, usually a simple kombu dashi, for about 10 minutes. When you smell the nice aroma of the ingredients, it is ready to serve. In Japan we have small, portable gas grills that are used on the dining room table so that the nabé is always hot and diners can continue to add vegetables and other ingredients to the pot as needed. Serve with your favorite  dipping sauces like a citrusy soy sauce (ponzuポン酢) or a creamy sesame paste sauce (gomadare ゴマだれ), and dip the cooked ingredients in the dipping sauces and enjoy. Nabé will wrap you up with warmness and a lot of nutrition in cold winters. In Japan, there are many kinds of nabé dishes as there are many types of seafood and meat.

The representative fish for nabé, which is very well known worldwide, is cod (madara真鱈 Gadus macrocephalus). 

Cod nabé ingredients

Madara (Pacific cod) is a winter delicacy for Japanese people. Cod flesh is delicate and flaky with a light flavor. The bones contribute to a good broth. Cod goes with any kind of sauce, and moreover, it is a very affordable fish. 

You can buy cod at any supermarket in Japan. I would like to give you some tips when choosing cod at your supermarket.

The first thing you should know is that madara spoils rather fast, and has a parasite (anisakis), so that you will not be able to buy cod as sashimi. All of the cod you buy at supermarkets has to be cooked before serving. It is usually sold as portion cuts. See the pictures below. 

However, there could be high-end restaurants that serve very fresh, air-shipped Japanese cod sashimi that is cured with kelp (kombu 昆布), a special technique called the kobujimé method. (Note – while kelp is called kombu in Japanese, the kelp-curing method is called kobujimé, without an “m”.)



解凍 kaitou = defrosted
甘塩たら切り身 amajio tara kirimi =  filets of lightly salted cod
甘塩 amajio =  lightly salted
たら tara =  Pacific cod
切り身  kirimi =  portion cuts
アメリカ産 Amerika san = product of America
ムニエル、フライでもどうぞ = suggested for meuniere or deep-fried
加工日 kakoubi = date the supermarket cut the filet and labeled it
消費期限 shouhikigen = expiration date (should be consumed no later than this date)


北海道 = Hokkaido 
生真たら Nama Matara =  fresh Pacific cod



Can you tell which filet was lightly salted and frozen prior and which is fresh?

The top photo is amajio or lightly salted. The bottom photo is fresh. You can tell by the color of the flesh, the fresh cod is transparent while the lightly salted cod is opaque. Also, the bloodline, which is the bit of red in the middle of the flesh, should be bright red in fresh fish while frozen and defrosted cod will lose this color.



Fresh Japanese cod (matara真たら、madara真鱈、nama tara生たら) and  Salted Alaskan cod (amajiotara甘塩たら)
Cod season in Japan is from November to March. You can buy very nice fresh cod during this period. Usually, the fish is caught and sent to markets whole or as fillets. There used to be ikijimé processed (killed immediately after harvested by breaking the spinal chord and removing the blood from the fish) line-caught cod from Miyagi and Ibaraki prefectures. However, the number has dramatically decreased due to the radiation problems after the Tsunami in March 2011. Now, most fresh cod comes from Hokkaido or Aomori in the northern part of Japan. When you find fresh cod, look for  (nama) and  真たら or 真鱈 (madara) or  生たら (namadara) on the package. (Note – the name tara for cod sometimes changes to dara when it is preceded by ma-or nama-.)

Also, defrosted Alaskan cod fillets are available yearlong. It is usually lightly salted.  The processors import tons of whole fish by a reefer ocean container from Alaska. Once in Japan the cod is defrosted and then processed into fillets and then lightly salted. Look for ‘甘塩たら amajio tara’ on the package.

たらこ tarako = (cod roe)
真だらの子 madara no ko =  (Pacific cod roe)
北海道産 Hokkaido san = from Hokkaido


Pacific cod roe

Pacific cod roe cut in half

Pacific cod roe simmered with carrots, Japanese turnips (kabu), and spinach.

Pacific cod roe with shirataki (konnyaku strings) and dried red chili peppers.

Pacific cod roe (真たらこmatarako) and milt (真たら白子matara shirako)
Surprisingly, it can be hard to believe for non-Japanese, that cod roe and milt are sold at a much higher price than the fillets. These are regarded as winter delicacies more than the flesh. They have very delicate flavors and unique textures. Both are not only put in nabé with the cod flesh, but also the roe is usually served as soup (simmered with kelp broth), or nitsuké (simmered with soy sauce, saké, and mirin), and the milt is lightly boiled in hot water then dipped in a citrus soy sauce (ponzu) garnished with chopped leeks and grated daikon radish. Also, you can deep-fry or sauté the milt.



青森産 = from Aomori
 白子 shirako = Pacific cod milt
真たら matara = Pacific cod


Pacific cod milt


milt simply blanched in hot water and saké


Pacific cod milt lightly blanched so the inside is still raw
topped with grated daikon, yuzu, ponzu, and shichimi


served with Urakasumi Kan-oroshi Tokubetsu Junmaishu from Miyagi

Both roe and milt are usually distributed through December to March from Hokkaido or Aomori prefectures, but the madara shirako has more demand than the supply. As a result, imported air-flown fresh Alaskan cod milt is distributed from late January to March. There is little demand for the product in Alaska, so most of air-flown milt is exported to Japan all the way over the Pacific Ocean. Alaskan milt is almost the half price of the local Hokkaido product. If you can identify and recognize the taste, then you really deserved to be called ‘a king of fishmongers’.


Perhaps you have had miso-marinated and grilled cod at a Japanese restaurant. This dish was made famous by chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, better known as Nobu. In Japanese, this dish is called gindara Saikyo-yaki. At many Japanese restaurants this is translated into English as "miso cod". Gindara is black cod, but actually, it is not Pacific cod, it is sablefish Anoplopoma fimbria. Sablefish is a very fatty fish while Pacific cod is not fatty at all.


Sablefish gindara filets after marinating in miso

Miso marinated and grilled sablefish gindara


February Seasonal Japanese Seafood 2月旬の魚

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ankimo monkfish liver

February is one of the coldest months in Japan, so it is a wonderful time for hot pots (nabé). Monkfish (ankō) is one of Shinji's favorite types of nabé. We always save the liver and serve it separately. Ankimo is often called the foie gras of the sea. It's very easy to steam - see a simple recipe here. Wakasagi is nice lovely when lightly battered and deep-fried.

As the waters are very cold this year, and as fish get ready to spawn in spring, they are rich with fat. This translates well into dishes like sashimi and nabé.

Image
hotaru ika


Some of the local seafood we look for this time of year include hotaru-ika and shira-ebi from Toyama Bay in the Sea of Japan. In Hokkaido there is of course cod (matara), ankō, and a very unusual fish called gokkō. Gokkō is a local fish in Hokkaido that is often used for nabé.



cod roe

cod milt with Urakasumi saké

As for matara (Pacific cod), there are so many delicious parts of it, from the meat to the shirako (milt) and matara no ko (roe). Milt is a delicacy, and for some, an acquired taste.

Kanburi at Himi Port in Toyama

Hokkaido wild buri sashimi

As for sashimi, we love kinmedai, hirame, kanburi and tairagai. If you get a fresh kawahagifor sashimi, save the liver, mash it in a mortar and pestle, and add it to some ponzu for a creamy dipping sauce. Shijimi miso soup is a wonderful way to start any day. Best of all may be all the succulent crabs that are in season like taraba-gani, benizuwai-gani and zuwai-gani.

A classic winter dish is buri daikon. (recipe here)

If you click on the Japanese name of the seafood you should be directed to a link with a photo.

Akagarei赤鰈flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)
Akōdai赤魚鯛 rockfish (Sebastes matsubarae)
Amadai赤甘鯛 tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicus)
Ankō鮟鱇 monkfish (Lophiomus setigerus)
Ankimo - monkfish liver
Benizuwaigani楚蟹  red snow crab (Chionoecetes japonicus)
Buri Japanese yellowtail (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Fugu真河豚 blowfish or pufferfish (Takifugu porphyreus)
Gokko布袋魚 smooth lumpsucker(Aptocyclus ventricosus)
Hamaguri浜栗  common Orient clam (Meretrix lusoria)
Hatahata  sailfin sandfish (Arctoscopus japonicus)
Hirame olive flounder (Paralichthys olivaceus)
Hokke𩸽arabesque greenling (Pleurogrammus azonus)
Honmaguro本鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)
* also called kuromaguro
Hotate帆立貝scallops (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Houbougurnard (Chelidonichthys spinosus)
Iidako飯蛸ocellated octopus (Octopus ocellatus)
Kaki牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)
Kanburi寒鰤 winter Japanese amberjack (see buri) (Seriola quinqueradiata)
* The port of Himi in Toyama is famous for its kanburi.
Kasago笠子 scorpionfish (Sebastiscus marmoratus)
Kawahagi皮剥 thread-sail filefish  (Stephanolepis cirrhifer)
Kinki黄血魚 thornhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai金目 (sometimes called kinme) splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Madai真鯛 seabream (Pagurus major)
Matara真鱈 codfish (Gadus macrocephalus)
Matsuba gani松葉蟹spiny crab (Hypothalassia armata)
Matsukawa松皮鰈 barfin flounder (Verasper moseri)
Mekajiki  女旗魚  swordfish (Xiphias gladias)
Mirugai海松食geoduck (Tresus keenae)
Mizudako水蛸North Pacific giant octopus (Octopus dofleini)
Mutsugnomefish (Scombrops boops)
Namako生子sea cucumber (Stichopus japonica)
Nametagarei婆鰈slime flounder (MIicrostomus achne)
Nishin  Pacific herring (Clupea pallasii)
SabaPacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Sawara Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Shijimi大和蜆 corbicula clams (Corbicula japonica)
Shiraebi白海老glass shrimp (Pasiphaea japonica)
Shirako milt from fugu or tara
Shirauo白魚whitefish or ice goby (Salangichthys microdon)
Tairagai平貝  penshell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tara真鱈 codfish (Gadus macrocephalus)
Tarabagani鱈場蟹 Alaskan king crab (Paralithodes camtschaticus)
Tsubugaiつぶ貝 whelk  (Buccinum undatum)
Umazurahagi馬面剥 filefish scraper (Thamnaconus modestus)
Wakasagi若細魚Japanese smelt  (Hypomesus nipponensis)
Yanagi dako柳蛸 chestnut octopus (Octopus conispadiceus)
Yari ika槍烏賊 spear squid (Loligo (Heterololigo) bleekeri)
Zuwaigani頭矮蟹 snow crab (Chionoecetes opilio)

March Seasonal Japanese Seafood

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March is a delicious month for seafood. The cold waters still bring fish rich with fat that shines in sashimi or is nice for grilling. Asari clams are great for making into a quick vongole style pasta. Grilling salted fish heads of buri or tai is quick and simple and the perfect accompaniment to sake or shochu.Bitesize tiny hotaru ika can be quickly blanched and then served with a sweet and vinegary sumiso dressing. Nishin can be salted and grilled. And perhaps my favorite this time of year is katsuo simply seared on the edges, sliced thickly, and served with some soy sauce and garlic.

If you click on the Japanese name of the seafood you should be directed to a link with a photo.

Akagai赤貝 ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii)
Akagarei赤鰈flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)
Amadai赤甘鯛 tilefish (Branchiostegus japonicus)
Ankou鮟鱇monkfish (Lophiomus setigerus)
Aoyagi  青柳  surf clam (Mactra chinensis)
Asari浅利 Japanese littleneck clams (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Benizuwaigani楚蟹  red snow crab   (Chionoecetes japonicus)
Buri Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Chidai  血鯛  crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Fugu真河豚blowfish or pufferfish (Takifugu porphyreus)
Hamaguri浜栗 common Orient clam (Meretrix lusoria)
Hira suzuki平鱸   blackfin Japanese seabass (Lateolabrax latus)
Hirame olive flounder (Paralichthys olivaceus)
Honmaguro本鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)
Hoshigarei星鰈 spotted halibut (Verasper variegatus)
Hotaru Ika蛍烏賊擬 firefly squid  (Enoploteuthis chunii)
Hotate帆立貝scallops (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Iidako飯蛸ocellated octopus (Octopus ocellatus)
Itoyori糸縒鯛 golden threadfin-bream (Nemipterus virgatus)
Kaki牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)
Kanburi 寒鰤 winter Japanese amberjack (see buri) (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Kasago笠子 scorpionfish (Sebastiscus marmoratus)
Katsuo skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kawahagi皮剥 thread-sail filefish  (Stephanolepis cirrhifer)
Kihadamaguro黄肌鮪yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares)
Kinki黄血魚 thornhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai金目 (sometimes called kinme) splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kohada小鰭 gizzard shad (Konosirus pumctatus)
Madai (or Tai) 真鯛 seabream (Pagurus major)
Makogarei真子鰈marbled sole (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Matsuba gani松葉蟹 spiny crab (Hypothalassia armata)
Matsukawa松皮鰈  barfin flounder (Verasper moseri)
Mebaru目張black rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Mirugai海松食geoduck (Tresus keenae)
Nishin Pacific herring (Clupea pallasii)
Oma honmaguro 大間鮪bluefin tuna from Oma in Aomori (see honmaguro)
SabaPacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Sakuraebi桜蝦sakura shrimp (Sergia lucens)
Sawara Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Sayori針魚 halfbeak (Hyporhamphus sajori)
Sazae栄螺 turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Shijimi大和蜆 corbicula clams (Corbicula japonica)
Shirauo白魚whitefish or ice goby (Salangichthys microdon)
Soudagatsuo騒多鰹 frigate mackerel  (Auxis thazard)
Surumeika  鯣烏賊  Japanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Tairagai平貝 pen shell or fan shell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tara真鱈 codfish (Gadus macrocephalus)
Tarabagani鱈場蟹 Alaskan king crab (Paralithodes camtschaticus)
Umazurahagi馬面剥 filefish scraper (Thamnaconus modestus)
Wakasagi若細魚Japanese smelt  (Hypomesus nipponensis)
Yanagi dako柳蛸 chestnut octopus (Octopus conispadiceus)
Yari ika槍烏賊 spear squid (Loligo (Heterololigo) bleekeri)
Zuwaigani頭矮蟹 snow crab (Chionoecetes opilio)

April Seasonal Japanese Seafood

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uniuni
uni pasta
uni pasta
spring sashimispring sashimi
kinme sushi 
kinmedai sushi
Tai Carpaccio
madai carpaccio
Saikyo masu
Saikyo miso marinated honmasu

The cherry blossoms have peaked in Tokyo as the weather has warmed up. This time of year we are seeing the last of the creamy shirako (milt) that we love so much as well as many fish eggs. The nabé hot pot is put on the higher shelf in the kitchen as we are not using it a few times a week as we were just last month. Being married to a Japanese fishmonger we eat a lot of seafood, from our breakfasts, usually with a grilled fish like a salted salmon or a himono (salted and air-dried fish) and seasonal sashimi at dinner. Here are some of our favorite dishes this time of year followed by a list of Japanese seasonal seafood you'll come across if visiting Japan in April.

There is so much to love about Japanese seafood in spring. In particular, there is a a pink-fleshed kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) that has a supple texture which is spectacular as sashimi or sushi. If you are lucky the sushi chef will just sear it to bring out a unique texture and aroma. Kinmedai is also often served as nitsuké, simmered in a sweet soy broth until just cooked through. In Japan, look for kinmedai from the port of Choshi in Chiba as it is line-caught and harvested in shallow waters so it is rich with fat.

Uni on its own may be hard for some to swallow, but once it is cooked with garlic, olive oil, and tomato paste and topped over pasta it becomes a luxurious lunch. A very easy dish that anyone can whip up in minutes with this recipeKatsuo is in season in the spring and then again in autumn. This time of year it is lean, while in fall it is rich with fat. We love it this time of year as sashimi.

 Madai (sea bream) is available all-year long as it is a commonly farmed fish. But, this time of year we can get wild madai that has a better texture than the farmed fish which can be flabby. We love the wild madai for a simple carpaccio (above) topped with shiso, myōgabenitadé, and chives. Myōga is in the ginger family and adds a fresh pop to the dish, shiso adds a minty aroma, and the benitadé adds a bit of pepper. Shinji also loves the honmasu (cherry salmon) this time of year. Here he marinates it in a sweet Saikyō miso marinade overnight and then grills it.

Most of the Japanese fish names are linked to a photo of the fish.

Ainame  鮎魚女 fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii
 Akagai 赤貝 ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii)
 Aoyagi   青柳  surf clam (Mactra chinensis)
 Asari  浅利  Japanese littleneck clams (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Bora    flathead mullet or gray mullet (Mugil cephalus)
Chidai 血鯛  crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Chiayu 稚鮎  young ayu or sweet fish (Plecoglossus altivelis)
Honmasu 本鱒 cherry salmon (Oncorhynchus masou)
Hotaru Ika   蛍烏賊擬   firefly squid  (Enoploteuthis chunii)
Hotate 帆立貝 scallops (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Hoya 海鞘 sea squirt (Halocynthia roretzi)
Ishidai  石鯛  black seabream (Oplegnathus fasciatus)
Katsuo   鰹  skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kasago   笠子  scorpion fish (Sebastiscus marmoratus)
karauni  殻雲丹  sea urchin (Anthocidaris crassispina)
Kinki 黄血魚  thorny head (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai 金目鯛 (sometimes called kinme) splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kihada maguro  黄肌鮪   yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares)
Kohada  小鰭  gizzard shad (Konosirus pumctatus)
Kurokarei 黒鰈   flounder or black plaice (Pleuronectes obscurus)
Kurodai 黒鯛   Japanese black porgy (Acanthopagrus schlegelii)
Maaji 真鯵 Japanese jack mackerel (Trachurus japonicus)
Magarei 真鰈 littlemouth flounder (Pleuronectes herzensteini)
Madai  真鯛  sea bream (Pagurus major)
Mategai   真手貝  razor clam (Solen strictus)
Mirugai  海松食   geoduck (Tresus keenae)
Mebaru 目張   rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Nishin     Pacific herring (Clupea pallasii)
Okoze 虎魚   scorpion fish (Inimicus japonicus)
Sakura ebi  桜蝦  sakura shrimp (Sergia lucens)
Sawara    Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Sayori   針魚  halfbeak (Hyporhamphus sajori)
Sazae   栄螺   turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Shako  蝦蛄  mantis shrimp (Oratosquilla oratoria)
Shirauo 白魚  whitefish or ice goby (Salangichthys microdon)
Shira ebi 白海老 glass shrimp (Pasiphaea japonica)
Sumiika  墨烏賊  cuttlefish (Sepia (Platysepia) esculenta)
Tachiuo 太刀魚 cutlassfish (Trichiurus lepturus)
Tairagai 平貝  pen shell or fan shell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tobiuo 飛魚 Japanese flying fish (Cypselurus agoo agoo)
Tokisake 時鮭   young chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)
Torigai 鳥貝 heart clam (Fulvia mutica)
Tsubugai  つぶ貝 whelk  (Buccinum undatum)

Buri (Yellowtail) Teriyaki

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Teriyaki Yellowtail ぶり照り焼き

Growing up in Minnesota, teriyaki chicken was a dish we had a lot as seafood was something we rarely saw unless it was canned tuna or a McDonald's Filet-O-Fish. The teriyaki sauce is irresistible as it is sweet and when cooked becomes a bit caramelized.

What makes this recipe better than what I grew up with is that it includes mirin, a sweet syrup that gives a glaze to the sauce and adds umami. Be sure to look for hon-mirin at the supermarket. It is authentic mirin and is not at all like the mass produced mirin.

Buri (yellowtail) is in season this time of year. It is a fish that is farmed, but we look for the wild buri when we can find it as it has a better texture and flavor than the farmed fish.

Teriyaki is a classic sauce that can be used with seafood like salmon, tuna, or swordfish (mekajiki) as well as with chicken. This is the traditional teriyaki recipe. Easy to remember and a breeze to cook. For the chicken, we prefer to bake it in the oven after letting it marinade overnight.

Serves 4

4 filets of yellowtail (buri) (about 100 grams each)

Teriyaki Sauce:
4 Tablespoons soy sauce
4 Tablespoons saké
4 Tablespoons hon-mirin
2 Tablespoons sugar

4 shishitōgarashi green pepper (optional)
salt
flour
salad oil

Sprinkle some salt on the filets. Cover with plastic wrap and put in the fridge for 30 minutes. This helps to get rid of any fishiness, draws out the umami in the fish, and rids it of excess liquid. After 30 minutes pat dry with a paper towel.

Make the teriyaki sauce and set aside.

Dust the filets with flour.

In a fry pan put a small amount of salad oil. Sauté the shishitō green peppers until they blister and set aside. Add the yellowtail and cook over medium heat until both sides are grilled, but not cooked all the way through.

Wipe the fry pan with a paper towel to get rid of any excess oil. Add the teriyaki sauce and slowly bring up the heat until the sauce comes to a boil. Turn off the heat and serve. Garnish with the shishitōgreen peppers.

* Be careful as the sugar and mirin in the sauce can burn.
* The flour will help to thicken the teriyaki sauce.

Sumiso - Vinegar and Miso Dressing

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Sumiso-Ae 菜の花酢みそ和え
Vinegar Miso Dressing

Nanohana, rape blossoms, have a bit of bitterness to them that pairs well with a sweet and tart miso dressing. The dressing can also be used with boiled octopus and cucumbers or with boiled hotaru-ika (firefly squid).

Sumiso Vinegar-Miso Dressing
50 grams Saikyō miso, white, sweet rice miso from Kyoto
1 Tablespoon mirin
1 teaspoon water
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 Tablespoon rice vinegar (komézu)

*Add some karashi Japanese mustard to the dressing for a bit of heat. Karashi is sold at the supermarket pre-mixed in small tubes, or dried in the spice section. The dried version needs to be mixed with some water.

In a small pan, combine the Saikyō miso, mirin, water, and sugar and cook over low heat for about two minutes, stirring constantly. Be careful not to burn the miso.

Remove from heat and allow it to cool to room temperature. Add the rice vinegar and mix thoroughly.

The mixture can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days in a sealed container.

Use sumiso to dress cooked vegetables such as nanohana (rape blossoms), asparagus, or pea pods, as well as boiled seafood like octopus or hotaru-ika (firefly squid). Octopus and firefly squid are usually sold pre-cooked at the supermarket.

May Seasonal Japanese Seafood

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katsuo tataki
The cold waters still bring fish rich with fat that shines in sashimi or is nice for grilling. Asari clams are great for making into a quick vongole style pasta. And perhaps my favorite this time of year is katsuo simply seared on the edges, sliced thickly, and served with some soy sauce and garlic. This time of year, the katsuo is referred to as "hatsu-gatsuo". Katsuo actually is in season two times a year. This is the first time we see it, hence the name "first katsuo" in Japanese. The meat in the spring is very rich and intense in flavor and is lean without any fat which makes it refreshing. Katsuo tataki is particularly nice if you can garnish it with fresh myoga and dress it with a citrusy ponzu sauce.
Hotate we like as sashimi or cooked meuniere style. Takikomigohan of scallops is also a nice change-up. Mebaru is a light, white fish that is nice as himono. Don’t throw away the head of tai as it is lovely when salted and grilled. Shinji also likes to keep the bones of tai after he has filleted the fish to make a broth. Simply make some kombu dashi, add the bones and simmer for about ten minutes. A delicate broth, but rich with the umami from the fish bones and kombu.
Iwashi (sardines) and isaki (threeline grunt) are just starting to become rich with fat as we approach the rainy season.
Ainame  鮎魚女  Fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii
Akagai 赤貝   Ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii) 
Aoyagi   青柳   Surf clam (Mactra chinensis) 
Asari  浅利   Japanese littleneck clam (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Ayu      Ayu or sweet fish ( Plecoglossus altivelis)
Chidai   血鯛   Crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Ginzake 銀鮭   Silver (Coho) salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutsh )
Hiramasa 平政 Giant amberjack (Seriola lalandi)
Hotate 帆立貝   Scallop  (Patinopecten yessoensis)
Hoya  ホヤ   Sea squirt (Ascidiacea) 
Minami maguro 南鮪 Southern bluefin tuna (Thunnus maccoyii) 
Isaki 伊佐木 Threeline grunt (Parapristipoma trilineatum )
Ishigarei 石鰈 Stone flounder (Kareius bicoloratus)
Katsuo      Skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Karauni   殻雲丹   Sea urchin (Anthocidaris crassispina)
Kinki 黄血魚   Thornhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai 金目鯛   Splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kihada maguro  黄肌鮪   Yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares) 
Kisu キス Sillago (Sillago japonica)
Kurodai 黒鯛   Japanese black porgy (Acanthopagrus schlegelii)
Okoze 虎魚   Scorpion fish (Lnimicus japonicus(Cuvier))
Maaji  真鯵   Horse mackerel (Trachurus japonicas)
Maanago 真穴子 Conger eel (Conger myriaster  )
Madai  真鯛   Red sea bream (Pagurus major)
Maiwashi 真鰯 Sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Mirugai  海松食   geoduck (Tresus keenae)
Mebaru 目張   rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Makogarei   真子かれい   Marbled flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae Gunther)
Mongōika もんごういか   Kisslip cuttlefish (Sepia lycidas) 
Sakura ebi  桜蝦    Sakura shrimp (Sergia lucens)
Sawara      Japanese Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus niphonius)
Sazae   栄螺   Turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Shirauo 白魚   Whitefish or ice goby (Salangichthys microdon)
Shira ebi 白海老   Glass shrimp (Pasiphaea japonica)
Sumiika   墨烏賊   Cuttlefish (Sepia (Platysepia  esculenta Hoyle)
Tairagai   平貝   Pen shell (Atrina (Servatrina) pectinata)
Tachiuo   太刀魚   Belt fish or Largehead hairtail (Trichiurus lepturus Temminck&Schlegel)
Tokisake   時鮭   Young chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)
Tsubugai   螺貝   Whelk (Buccinum undatum)
Shako   蝦蛄   Mantis shrimp (Oratosquilla oratoria)
Shiro ika 白烏賊 Swordtip squid (Photololigo edulis)
Torigai   鳥貝   Cockle (Fulvia mutica)


Kinoko Mushroom Soba きのこそば

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The earthy buckwheat soba noodles are our favorite. It often becomes a last minute lunch meal as there is always dried soba noodles in the pantry as well as a bottle of men tsuyu concentrate. In this simple recipe mushrooms are simply cut into bite-size pieces and blanched in hot water and then put onto the soba. The earthy mushrooms are a perfect partner for the noodles.


Kinoko (Mushroom) Soba
Serves 4

½ cup shiméjimushrooms
½ cup shiitakémushrooms
½ cup maitakémushrooms
½ cup namékomushrooms

4 bunches of dried soba
bottled men tsuyu 麺つゆ orめんつゆ

shichimi (seven spice), optional

Heat up a very large pot of water for boiling the soba. Heat up a second large pot of water to cook the mushrooms.

Place the namékomushrooms in a bowl. Cut off the stems of the shiitaké mushrooms and cut the cap into thin slices. Cut the base of the shiméji mushrooms and break into individual pieces. Cut the base of the maitakémushrooms and break into smaller pieces. Put all of the mushrooms in a bowl.

Quickly blanch the mushrooms in hot water and set aside.

In a pot prepare the soba broth according to the directions on the tsuyu bottle.

In the very large pot of boiling water cook the soba according to the packet, usually about 4 minutes. Be careful not to let the pot boil over. Add cold water if needed to prevent them from boiling over. After it is cooked rinse thoroughly in cold running water. Put the noodles in a soba bowl, top with the hot soba broth and the cooked mushrooms. Garnish with shichimi (seven spice).



Nama Shirasu Donburi 生白す丼

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Nama Shirasu Donburi

Shirasu are baby sardines that most often come to market after being blanched in salt water. This time of year we sometimes find it raw, as nama shirasu. These are a bit intense in flavor and have a somewhat slippery texture. It comes with a small packet of ground ginger that we garnish it with. The ginger helps to balance the rich flavor. Just drizzle with soy sauce and it becomes the main dish for lunch when served with some miso soup and some side dishes.


Here is what it looks like at the market. It says on the label sashimiyō so we know that it can be eaten raw. The pack is 380 JPY and serves two.

Enoshima, a popular beach resort area south of Tokyo, is famous for its nama shirasu. Here are photos from a meal we had in Enoshima that featured shirasu tempura and nama shirasu donburi.

sashimiyō 刺身用 can be eaten raw
shirasu 白す baby sardines
nama  raw or uncooked

June Seasonal Japanese Seafood 6月旬の魚

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DSCN6012
The waters are warming up around Japan and many of the fish coming to market now are lean like katsuo. Here is a sashimi platter at our home, Izakaya Sakamoto. The big fish in the back is Tokyo Bay ajiiwashi, lean katsuokisu, and shiriyake-ika.
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This tsubugai sashimi was served at a izakaya specializing in shōchūBettako. One of the joys of eating sashimi in Japan is the wide variety of shellfish. Tsubugai has a rich texture. Here it is served with some grated daikon, julienned myōga, and green onions.
Taste of TohokuAt a recent class at Elizabeth Andoh's A Taste of Culture, we made a full meal from her latest collection of recipes, Kibō Recipes and Stories from Japan's Tohoku. The rice dish is made with tokijake (chum salmon) and ikura.
ika
Young surumeika are just now coming into the market. They are very soft and tender. You can eat it as sashimi without peeling the skin. Here we had it barbecued. It is stuffed with its innards and legs and simply grilled.
DSCN6298
This is a sashimi platter we made on June 1st. Shinji's father went fishing that morning in Tokyo Bay and all of the seafood, except for the Hokkaido scallops in the middle, were caught in the waters near Tokyo. This sashimi is even fresher than what customers are eating at Tsukiji Market sushi shops. Here we have aji, kochi, madako, and kisu.DSCN6299
Also, from Tokyo Bay, is this beautiful saba. Pacific mackerel is often cured in vinegar and served as shime-saba. It's not often seen like this, but was amazing. Not as fishy as we associate with mackerel. We served it with julienned pickled ginger, myōga, and shiso and dressed it with a citrusy ponzu.
Another fish in season right now is anago. There is a restaurant in Nihonbashi that specializes in anago. A visit to Tamai, which is just behind Nihonbashi Takashimaya, is a treat, especially this time of year.
Ainame  鮎魚女  Fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii)
Akagai 赤貝   Ark shell (Scapharca broughtonii)
Amaebi 甘海老 Pink shrimp (Pandalus eous)
Aoyagi   青柳   Surf clam (Mactra chinensis) 
Asari  浅利   Japanese littleneck clam (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Ayu      Ayu or sweet fish (Plecoglossus altivelis)
Chidai   血鯛   Crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Ginzake 銀鮭   Silver (Coho) salmon (Oncorhynchus kisuts)
Hamo 鱧 Pike conger  (Muraenesox cinereus)
Hiramasa 平政 Giant amberjack (Seriola lalandi)  
Hoya  ホヤ   Sea squirt (Ascidiacea) 
Isaki 伊佐木 Threeline grunt (Parapristipoma trilineatum)
Ishigarei 石鰈 Stone flounder (Kareius bicoloratus)
Katsuo      Skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis) 
Karauni   殻雲丹   Sea urchin (Anthocidaris crassispina)
Kinki 黄血魚   Thornyhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kinmedai 金目鯛   Splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kisu キス Sillago (Sillago japonica)
Kochi 鯒 Flathead (Platycephalus indicus)  
Ma-aji  真鯵   Horse mackerel (Trachurus japonicas)
Ma-anago 真穴子 Conger eel (Conger myriaster) is a salt-water eel
Madako真蛸   Octopus   (Octopus vulgaris)
Maiwashi 真鰯 Sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Makokarei   真子鰈  Marbled flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Mebachi maguro  目鉢   Bigeye tuna (Thunnus obesus)
Mebaru 目張   rockfish (Sebastes inermis)
Minami maguro 南鮪 Southern bluefin tuna (Thunnus maccoyii)
Mirugai  海松食   geoduck  (Tresus keenae) 
Mongouika紋甲烏賊   Kisslip cuttlefish (Sepia lycidas)
Okoze 虎魚   Scorpion fish (Inimicus japonicus)
Saruebi 猿海老  Southern rough shrimp  (Trachysalambria curvirostris)
Sazae   栄螺   Turban shell (Turbo cornutus)
Shako   蝦蛄   Mantis shrimp (Oratosquilla oratoria)
Shiiraシイラ Mahi-mahi (Coryphaena hippurus)
Shiroika 白烏賊 Swordtip squid (Photololigo edulis)
Shitabirame舌平目 Red tongue sole (Cynoglossus joyneri)
Surume ikaスルメイカ  Japanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Suzuki 鱸 Japanese seabass (Lateolabrax japonicus)
Tachiuo   太刀魚   Belt fish or Largehead hairtail (Trichiurus lepturus)
Tokisake   時鮭   Young chum salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)
Torigai   鳥貝   Cockle (Fulvia mutica)
Tsubugai   螺貝   Whelk (Buccinum undatum)

Summer Tomato Somen

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Tokyo is finally heating up and it's that time of year for cold sōmen noodles. With a bottle of tsuyu, the seasoned broth for noodles, in the pantry, this dish is on the table in less than 10 minutes. The only thing that really takes time here is boiling the water.

While the water is coming to a boil, chop up a ripe tomato, julienne some green leeks, and grind some toasted sesame seeds. Add tsuyu to taste.

Boil the sōmen, usually only about one or two minutes. Rinse thoroughly in cold water.

The dish can also be made with cold udon noodles.

July Seasonal Japanese Seafood 7月旬の魚

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Simmered ma-anago
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Seared katsuo
Some of our personal favorites include ayu (salted and grilled), shitabirame (meuniere), shijimi (miso soup), benisake (salted and grilled), and for sashimi – surumeikakinmedaitakabe, and isaki.
Ainame 鮎並 fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii)
Akashita birame 赤舌鮃  red-tongued sole (Cynoglossus joyneri)
Awabi 鮑 abalone (Haliotis sorenseni)
Ayu 鮎 sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis altivelis)
Benisake べにさけ 紅鮭 sockeye salmon (Oncorhynchus nerka)
Dojou 泥鰌 loach (Misgurnus Anguillicaudatus)
Hamo   pike eel or pike conger (Muraenesox cinereus)
Inada イナダ young Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Isaki 伊佐幾 chicken grunt  (Parapristipoma trilineatum)
Ishidai 石鯛  barred knifejaw (Oplegnathus fasciatus)
Ishimochi イシモチ nibe croaker (Nibea mitsukurii)
Iwana 日光岩魚 whitespotted char (Salvelinus leucomaenis pluvius)
Kamasu 大和叺 barracuda (Sphyraena japonica)
Kanpachi  間八 amberjack or yellowtail (Seriola dumerili)
Katsuo 鰹  skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kawahagi 皮剥 thread-sail filefish (Stephanolepis cirrhifer)
Kihada maguro 黄肌鮪 yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares)
Kinmedai 金目鯛 splendid alfonsino (Beryx splendens)
Kisu 鱚 Japanese whiting (Sillago japonica)*or shirogisu
Kochi 鯒 bartail flathead (Platycephalus)
Kuro maguro 黒鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)
Maaji 真鯵 Japanese jack mackerel (Trachurus japonicus)
Maanago 真穴子 whitespotted conger (Conger myriaster)
Maiwashi 真鰯  Japanese sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Makogarei 真子鰈 marbled sole (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Masaba 真鯖 Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Mejimaguro めじまぐろ young tuna (genus Thunnus) if it is a young bluefin tuna it will be called honmeji, if it is a young yellowfin tuna it will be called kinmeji.
Niji masu 虹鱒 rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss)
Oni okoze  鬼虎魚 spiny devilfish (Inimicus japonicus)
Shijimi – 大和蜆 corbicula clams or water clams (Corbicula japonica)
Shima aji  島鯵 striped jack or white trevally (Pseudocaranx dentex)
Shiro ika 白いか  swordtip squid (Loligo (Photololigo) edulis)* or kensaki ika
Shitabirame 舌平目 (or ushinoshita) four line tongue sole(Arelia bilineat)
Surumeika 鯣烏賊  Japanese common or flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Suzuki 鱸  Japanese sea perch (Lateolabrax japonicus)
Tachiuo 太刀魚 cutlassfish (Trichiurus lepturus)
Takabe たかべ yellow-striped butterfish (Labracoglossa argentiventris)
Tobiuo 飛魚 Japanese flying fish (Cypselurus agoo agoo)
Unagi 鰻 Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica)

Tarako Potato Salad

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I love Japanese potato salad. The potatoes are boiled (or steamed) and then mashed. The classic Japanese potato salad includes cooked carrots, cucumbers, and ham. That recipe takes a bit more time so I was thrilled when this version was on NHK the other night.

This version reminds me of being in Greece and having the meze taramasolata. This is also made with fish eggs, tarako. Quick and easy to put together. Great on its own, or good with some crostini.

mashed potatoes
tarako (or mentaiko)
mayonnaise

Myoga, Okra, and Cucumber Miso Soup

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The markets are overflowing with crunchy vegetables like crisp cucumbers, myōga, and okra. The combination in miso soup is a nice break from our routine of wakamé and tōfu. The myōga, like a gentle ginger, is aromatic and is crispy. A great contrast to the okra that becomes a bit slippery when warmed up. Thin sliced cucumber added at the last minute adds a unique flavor to miso soup.


Hiyashi-jiru Chilled Miso Soup

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Summer has officially arrived in Tokyo and it's been unbearably hot. While we like to start our mornings with miso soup, a hot bowl of soup just is not appetizing in this weather.

Hiyashi-jiru is a cold miso soup. I first had it when visiting Miyazaki prefecture. It's a regional dish that is popular in Miyazaki. Miyazaki is on the southern island of Kyushu. When I first heard about the dish, before my trip to Miyazaki, I couldn't imagine that it would be delicious, but it was surprisingly refreshing. It was a hit this morning, and I have a feeling we'll be eating a lot of it before autumn comes.

The miso soup starts with dashi. Before adding the miso to the dashi, it is cooked in a non-stick pan to bring out some roasty notes. Once the miso is incorporated into the dashi put it in a metal bowl and put the bowl into a larger bowl that had ice water in it to cool down the miso soup. Then add a thinly sliced cucumber, myōga, and a can of tuna.

Toast some sesame seeds in a pan and then grind the toasted sesame seeds.

Check the temperature to see if it is chilled. If not, feel free to add a few small ice cubes to the soup.

Pour the miso soup over rice and garnish with the ground, toasted sesame seeds.

Variations: add shredded shiso, okra, or cooked chicken.


Corn Rice

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Growing up in Minnesota my summers were filled with corn. One summer I even had a part-time job detasseling corn. Most of the times we bought our corn directly from the farmers. Big paper bags of corn picked just hours before for only a few bucks. In Tokyo I am paying anywhere from one to two dollars for one ear of corn. It kills me and I don't have the luxury of eating ear after ear after ear of hot, buttered corn. 

Recently, at Den in Jimbocho, chef Zaiyu Hasegawa served corn and scallops cooked with rice. It was so delicious I knew I had to try and recreate it at home. I didn't have scallops at home so tried making it just with corn and loved it.
Den32

Simply slice the corn off the cob. Prepare the rice as you normally would at home. Then put into the rice cooker and add the corn. I also like to add a little bit of salt. And cook as usual. No need to add any extra water because of the corn. The corn cooks as the rice is steamed. After the rice and corn is cooked, stir it up with a rice paddle to incorporate the corn into the rice.

Tomato Somen

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To beat the summer heat we often have cold noodles. Often soba or sōmen noodles with some iced tsuyu sauce. Tsuyu is made from soy sauce, mirin, and saké cooked with katsuobushi. It's a sweet and smokey soy sauce. It's a great dipping sauce for the noodles, but we are always looking for some variety and lately have made a cold tomato sauce for sōmen.

This first one above Shinji made by sautéing in a pan onions, red and yellow bell peppers, and eggplant in some olive oil and then adding tomatoes to the mixture. Then cooling the chunky tomato sauce in the fridge before serving. It's put over cold sōmen noodles and then topped with a bit of extra virgin olive oil. Very Italian in flavor and I'm sure this would also go well with cold angel hair pasta.


This second tomato sōmen dish is more Japanese. We saw it on NHK one night. Simply add tomatoes to tsuyu with some finely chopped shiso and ground, toasted sesame seeds. Very refreshing with the shiso and we loved the addition of the nutty sesame seeds. I think next time I'll add some chopped myōga.

August Seasonal Japanese Seafood 8月旬の魚

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katsuo
Katsuo tataki
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Katsuo sashimi topped with myoga, shiso, and garlic
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Katsuo as done by chef Zaiyu Hasegawa at Den

Look for seafood from this list when eating out in Japan or in the supermarkets or at your fishmonger. Most of the seafood listed here you can enjoy as sushi or sashimi. At home we like to have tachiuo as sashimi with a bit of sesame oil and sea salt. Ayu is best salted and grilled. And while we don't cook hamo at home we look forward to having it out at restaurants, especially with a bainiku (umeboshi) dressing. At home we often have katsuo topped with lots of yakumi like shiso, myōga, and garlic then dress it with a soy sauce and sesame oil dressing. Katsuo can be bought raw or seared on the outside as tataki).

Ayu 鮎  sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis altivelis)
Dojou 泥鰌 loach (Misgurnus Anguillicaudatus)
Hamo   pike eel or pike conger (Muraenesox cinereus)
Hiramasa 平政 yellowtail amberjack (Seriola lalandi)
Hoya  ほや sea squirt(Halocynthia roretzi)
Inada 鰍 young amberjack (or yellowtail) (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Stages of buri: wakashi, inada, warasa, buri
Indo maguro Southern Bluefin tuna 
Isaki 伊佐幾 chicken grunt (Parapristipoma trilineatum)
Kanpachi  間八 amberjack or yellowtail (Seriola dumerili)
Katsuo 鰹 skipjack tuna (or bonito) (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kensaki ika 剣先烏賊 swordtip squid (Loligo edulis)
Kihada maguro 黄肌鮪 yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares)
Kisu 鱚 Japanese whiting (Sillago japonica)*or shirogisu
Kochi 鯒 bartail flathead (Platycephalus)
Koyari ika 小槍烏賊  baby spear squid (Loligo bleekeri)
Kuruma-ebi 車海老 Japanese tiger prawn (Penaeus (Melicertus) japonicus)
Ma-aji 真鯵 Japanese jack mackerel (Trachurus japonicus)
Ma-anago 真穴子 whitespotted conger (saltwater eel) (Conger myriaster)
Ma-iwashi 真鰯  Japanese sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Managatsuo 真名鰹 silver pomfret (Pampus punctatissimus)
Ma-tako 真蛸  common octopus (Octopus vulgaris)
Nijimasu 虹鱒 rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss)
Shiira  しいら 鱪 dorado or mahi-mahi (Coryphaena hippurus)
Shima aji  島鯵 striped jack or white trevally (Pseudocaranx dentex)
Shinko (Konoshiro) 鰶 dotted gizzard shad (Konosirus punctatus)
Surumei ika するめいか Japanese common squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Suzuki すずき 鱸 Japanese sea bass (Lateolabrax japonicus)
Tachiuo 太刀魚  cutlassfish (Trichiurus lepturus)
Takabe たかべ yellow-striped butterfish (Labracoglossa argentiventris)
Unagi 鰻 Japanese freshwater eel  (Anguilla japonica)

Mentaiko Pasta

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One of my guilty pleasures? Mentaiko. Roe from cod or pollack salted and marinated in a chili spice. Simply as it is or grilled and served with rice. It's nice spread on garlic toast, or one of our favorites, mentaiko pasta.

I love angel hair pasta for this dish. While the water is coming to a boil scrape the mentaiko out of its sac. Cook the angel hair pasta until al dente.

Put the pasta in a bowl, add the mentaiko and some mayonnaise and butter. Stir until combined and serve immediately.

If you are looking for a healthful version, use extra virgin olive oil instead of the mayonnaise and butter.




Mentaiko Toast

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Mentaiko, spicy roe of cod or pollack, is rich in umami. Whenever I visit a bakery the first type of bread that I look for is any bread with mentaiko. Usually it is a petit baguette that is sliced in half and schmeared with a mixture of mentaiko, butter, and garlic that is simply toasted lightly.

Recreating it at home is a breeze. In a bowl combine some mentaiko removed from its sac, butter, and minced garlic. Spread on thick slices of bread and toast. This is nice with some saké or with some sweet potato shochu.

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